The castle was once the seat of a certain Richard the Lionheart and is well worth a look. You'll finish the day at Beynac, a picturesque village beside the Dordogne dominated by its castle set on a cliff 500 feet above. Baker was an extraordinary woman, as you'll discover - cabaret artiste, wartime spy for Charles de Gaulle, and the only woman to speak alongside Martin Luther King on the day of his famous 'I Have A Dream' speech. In the afternoon, you'll follow the Dordogne along quiet roads, passing the Châteaux of Beynac and Castelnaud, which face each other across the Dordogne, as well as the Château des Milandes, home of Josephine Baker. To atone, he built 3 churches, including the tiny St. Perhaps you're familiar with the story of King Henry II, the English king who carelessly asked some of his knights, when referring to the famous cleric Thomas Becket, "Will no one rid me of this meddlesome priest?" The knights followed his orders, and Henry was villified for Becket's death. Just before you reach Limeuil, you'll encounter little St. Limeuil is a beautiful bastide town, and the area where the rivers meet is a great place for a swim. Time to get on your bike! Today, you'll follow the Vézère to Limeuil, where it meets the Dordogne. It's rare that a 'national' musuem in France is not based in Paris, which is a clue about the importance of Les Eyzies in the world of pre-history. Nearby is one of the oldest sculptures in the world, a 20,000 year-old fish at the Abri de Poisson, and the Font de Gaume, site of some of the most important cave paintings in the world.Īnyone who has time should consider a visit to the National Museum of Prehistory. As well as the National Museum of Prehistory, Les Eyzies boasts the settlement of Cro Magnon, where the first example of homosapiens, or 'thinking man', was discovered. Les Eyzies is a small village of 900 people, but it styles itself as the 'Capital of Prehistory' - and with some justification. This delightful hotel sits on the banks of the River Beune, just upstream from where the Beune joins the Vézère. You'll stay at Le Moulin de la Beune, one of the highlights of the tour programme. Read some of Martin Walker's mysteries set in the area to set the mood for your trip.However you decide to travel, arrive in the Dordogne at Les Eyzies on Saturday evening. The dining is delicious and reasonably priced, as are the wines. We have connections in the area and intend to get to Rocamadour, Saint-Cirq-Lapopoe, and Belves in the future. Castlenaud has the medieval war demonstrations with catapults if you have a taste for that. Chateau Milande, home to Josephine Baker is another half day with great gardens and architecture. It is easy to spend a half day, it is far more than the sculpted boxwood on most photos. The Jardins Marqueyssac are exquisite with a fine view of the river. It was worth pulling off the road and taking a ridiculous number of photos. We also encountered a veritable army of ducks marching back to their evening quarters near Tursac. There is a minor charge and it is on an insanely narrow road but is fascinating. Either to or from Lascaux, stop at the Bories du Breuil to see old circular houses entirely made of stone including the roof. You can also do the National Museum at Les Eyzies de Tayac devoted to the era if you have interest. Lascaux for the reproduction of the prehistoric paintings is outstanding. We finished in Beynac and were inspired to return to the Chateau later for a tour. Pulling out in La Roque-Gageac for a village stroll and lunch is a great stop. He recommends the kayak trip down the Dordogne River which is a wonderful adventure. Hi Carol, the RS guidebook is no slouch for the Dordogne area.
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